Friday 28 September 2012

Some visual images with lovely memories...

The glorious and ever changing view outside our house
..often including kite-surfers.
This guy did tricks, and even jumped a boat !

...and many wonderful sunsets.
Watched while sitting on our wall with a cocktail in hand.
With the occasional storm kicking up.
Now the wet season has started we get a hour or two of rain every week or so !

A lovely visit from Mum and Dad/Nana and Grandad.
This photo taken as they were about to depart on the ferry.
Many breakfasts and other meals eaten outside
The view from our favorite restaurant - The Beachlounge

Many dinners at the night market

A great visit from Pairoj, Jib and Khanoon
...on the swing
...and in the hammock

More time enjoying the swing that Mike and Pairoj made
....and watching others get enjoyment from it too.
Matthew and his school soccer team.  Ages 7 to 10 years.
Players from: France, Portugal, Sweden, Brazil, Thailand, Japan and NZ !

Certificate and medal haul on Si-Panya School Sports Day !
A heart stopping adventure 22m up high in the trees
I was so proud of the enthusiasm and courage and sense of fun with
which Annabelle tackled this hardest traverse.

Our Thai language lesson with Cru Pam
Learning about the island.
Visiting the coconut site and watching coconut milk being made.

And learning that petrol can also be sold from whisky bottles.
Which we have found very handy on occasion !

Ching-chok spotting, both inside and outside the house
Exploring various Buddhist shrines and temples
More glorious beaches...is it possible to tire of them?

And bath temperature water to hang out in. 
Matthew and Annabelle feeling the beat on Hat Rin beach, venue of the Full Moon parties


I loved the care taken here with towels

...and a toilet roll.
So at odds with many of our unpleasant toilet experiences !


And lastly...a wonderful farewell from Si-Panya School

My journey into yoga and meditation...

Leaving The Sanctuary

Today is my last day of a 3 day 'retreat' at The Sanctuary at Had Tien beach on Koh Phangan.  At the end of this wonderful 3 month family retreat to our small quiet island, I have managed to create 3 days completely for myself.   I have never taken time solely for myself like this before, but for many years have been attracted to the idea.  My goal:  to carry on with some more yoga, to learn a bit about meditation and take time for reflection. 

Note: it is not an organized retreat in that sense of the word, just a personal one.
The transport in and out of Had Tien

ad Tien is accessible by boat (or a very difficult 4WD track) and The Sanctuary is known for its yoga & meditation, various resident healers, very good vegetarian & seafood restaurant and fasting programs.  I am not fasting, although many people here are - something for next time perhaps.  As I arrived by boat I had a sense of being transported far away, even if it was only 30 minutes or so from where our house is.
My balcony

The whole place is built from the beach up a hill over the rocks and amongst the jungle.  I have a small simple bamboo bungalow with a thatch roof, a comfortable bed, a chair, a mosquito net inside and a hammock outside.  The bathroom has a warm shower and a western style toilet, is accessed over a small bridge and one wall is a large rock.  The accommodation options range from more basic than that, to more comfortable, depending on your preference.
Where the healers reside...

As well as yoga and meditation, I have also had the opportunity to keep an open mind and try some things I have never experienced before, such as a transformative breathing class, and an astrology session.  The astrologer woman was fascinating to see in action, just observing how she can see so much for all the signs of the zodiac just from one map.  And  while I didn't find particular meaning for me right now in her horoscope, I did learn that I need to know my time-of-birth to fix once and for all whether I am a Libra or Scorpio !  Anyone who is interested can ask me about transformative breathing, it was a completely new experience for me and there were clearly some real enthusiasts of this process in the group.
My glorious regular yoga location in Sri Thanu
I came to Thailand hoping to continue my fitness with yoga (my inclination to run was soon overcome by the heat, and various stray barking dogs chasing me) and I have been to a number of classes while we have been here.  Low season has meant that the classes aren't always reliably running and the instructors change regularly, but the upside of this is that it has expanded my experience of styles and techniques.  Some of the teachers would end with a led meditation.  As well as Hatha and Ashtanga, one style taught at the Sanctuary is Yin yoga which I had not come across before.  This emphasizes the length of time spent in each pose, essentially aiming to focus on breathing and to meditate in each pose - so a good opportunity for practicing what I have been learning.  It is still quite hot, so every class feels a bit like what I imagine Bikram yoga to be like, so I have not been tempted by that particular style.  

I hadn't been to yoga for about 3 years after injuring my back, so have been careful in getting back into it.  I have been learning from the different instructors some tips for not doing that again.  However a couple of weeks ago I did re-injure it in the same place in another Ashtanga class - so may need to steer clear of Ashtanga.  Fortunately, regular Lek massages have helped significantly in the recovery. 

When we arrived on this island, I was completely unaware that Koh Phangan is known for its meditation, as there is a very old local temple Wat Khao Tam where the monks have taught meditation for many years.  Because of this, many private centers for yoga and meditation have also grown up in various spots around the island.  At the Wat they now run 10 day retreats where there are many hours of meditation each day with no talking and no technology allowed - definitely for the experienced meditator and not a mere beginner like myself!  I looked into doing something more organized, but didn't find anything that suited the dates I had available.

My interest in meditation stems from wanting to train myself to be more 'present', rather than have my mind constantly running ahead to the next things to be done.  The mental challenge of quieting my mind is as big as I anticipated, but I now have some tools for helping with this.  What I hadn't anticipated was the physical challenge for sitting for long periods of time virtually immobile - although I have learned a little about walking and lying meditation as well.

My first experiences of meditating were with 'our' wonderful massage lady Lek.  She has just built a small house which she uses solely as a place of meditation.  She goes there morning and night and after hearing I was interested to learn, one evening invited me along also.  I followed behind her motorbike in the dark to an area just outside of Thong Sala and she showed me her very small meditation house.  I hadn't realized it would just be us there.  She took me though her preparatory Buddhist rituals and how she meditates and I followed suit, in my own way.  Her gift to me is a mantra which means 'kindness and love from the heart'.  It was a truly meaningful introduction to the practice of meditation and one that will remain with me forever. 

It didn't take too long as a first attempt, and shortly afterward a group of invited friends and her meditation teacher turned up.  It turned into what I would describe as a seated Buddhist prayer meeting, starting with lighting of bunches of incense, which continued to waft through the room for the evening, then continued with beautiful musical chanting, punctuated with intermittent bowing to the shrine set up along one wall.  It was an amazing experience to be a part of, and would have been even more meaningful if I could have understand a single word!  Several days later I was chatting to another (Thai) woman who had been there who told me it was mostly actually in Chinese so she didn't understand a lot of it either !  For me, it eventually became a sort of endurance event for how long I could remain seated on the floor barely shifting and so, after more than one hour, and having observed a few people coming and going, so ascertaining this would be acceptable, I made my own exit.  

A few days later Lek invited Mike, Annabelle and Matthew to come for a visit also.  She showed us around her garden, opened a coconut for a snack, and we all took part in the incense lighting.  She enjoyed teaching the children a little bit of meditation also. and we stayed for just a few minutes of the prayer session, which was all the children could really manage.  

Seeking to understand a little more about meditation than I could access through the language barrier with Lek, I have read a simple but great book called One Step At A Time by Phra Peter Pannapadipo which explains Buddhist meditation, from the very basics and in the context of the Buddhist faith.  He is actually English but has chosen life as a monk (Phra) in Thailand so explains it in an easily understandable way, from an informed Western perspective.  
View down to Had Tien from the top of the hill

At The Sanctuary, I have also had the opportunity to take part in some guided meditation sessions and ask some questions related to my own experiences in a session with an experienced meditator - a lovely intuitive American woman named Tammy.

So from these teachers I have had a chance to learn, and have had some time on my own for practice.  I am not sure I am making great progress, but am enjoying, and persisting with the journey.  I hope I can keep with it when we return.

There are a host of alternative practices on offer.
On occasion I have found myself seeking to find meaning in the phrases uttered, such as:
- breathe through your middle eye
- your hips are the crucible for your organs
- find the part of you that is always there
I am not sure that I was always successful.

Saturday 22 September 2012

Mike & Matthew - budding Muay Thai champions of Remuera !




Speed, power, balance !
Mike sparring with Nut
And look at that power !
Matthew sparring with Kob.

I have been thinking about what last topics I want to capture as we will leave Koh Phangan in less than 2 weeks now - we will be back in NZ in about 3 weeks.  I know once we get back to NZ anything left un-blogged will remain un-blogged !

One of these things is Muay Thai.  Not that I feel particularly qualified to say much about it as this has been Mike's gig.   However it has been a significant feature of our family stay here and I feel my musings wouldn't be complete without something on it.  So this is my take on Muay Thai, from listening, watching at the gym and some Q&A with Mike.




The ring, with the gym on the right.
Mike has been regularly going to Kobra Muay Thai (sometimes they call them gyms, sometimes camps).  Well before leaving NZ he had identified that this was something he wanted to use this time for - combining a uniquely Thai experience and a new skill, with fitness and weightloss.

Muay Thai is the traditional boxing of Thailand.  It means 'The Art of Eight Limbs' because there are 8 possible parts of contact (rather than just one i.e. fists).  To watch it appears to be the only form of boxing which virtually has no rules - you can use head, fists, elbows, legs, feet and knees.  As far as we know the only thing you can't do is knee/kick in the balls, but anything else goes !  There is very little of the protective gear that you would see with any sort of boxing in Western countries

Not long after arriving here, Mike (with me in tow) drove around to check out 3 or 4 of the local Muay Thai gyms and their offerings.  Most concentrate on group training sessions and you pay a weekly or monthly fee, regardless of how often you go.  However Kobra, which also happened to be the closest to us, had a more personal offering which was one-on-one training and a pay-as-you-go system.  Surprisingly the fees were probably about the same wherever you went - it is 300B for 1.5 hours (i.e. about $12NZD) - great value for one-on-one.  
Shub ! Shub !
Mike goes along about 4 or 5 times a week, when he has been here, and is not injured (he has had a couple of weeks away with 2 work trips to Sydney and Singapore).  He trains with Kob who is the gym owner and was, in his day, a champion fighter - he is now also in his 40s.  Or if not Kob, then one of the 3 young (20-ish) Thai guys who live, work and train at the gym - this is the traditional way these places have worked - hence called a 'camp'. 
Kobra Camp

The training session starts with about half an hour of fitness (a run, or skipping, jumping on tyres), then some stretching in which the trainer helps (sometimes too much - Mike was injured the other day by one of the young trainers pulling his leg up too high).  They then have their hands strapped and move onto shadow boxing and after that sparring. 
Matthew being stretched by Nut


And hands taped.
Every so often they take a break for a drink of water and the trainer will give a rub down with a cold wet cloth and a bit of a massage.  Mike does press ups at various intervals and usually finishes up with sit-ups.  Right now he has just walked in hot, sweaty and exhausted !  He also usually has to walk or run to the Muay Thai gym and back as I have the car to take the kids to school and to get to my yoga, which is much further away.  
A cool down and stretch in between bouts.

There is quite a bit of a sense of community around the gym, especially on a fight-night.  Mike has enjoyed the interaction with the local guys and also the longer term Farang trainees.
Fight Night line up.

The young guys who work at the gym, and some of the better/younger Farangs will also take part in a fight every so often (Mike hasn't been invited yet!).  There is an organized Muay Thai fight night on Koh Phanagan about every 3 or 4 weeks, with different gyms taking turns to host it and the fighters being put forward by the various gyms also.  In the couple of days preceding the fights, trucks drive up around the island advertising the fight line up -  probably 5 or 6 fights on one evening, including some between women, and also kids as young as 8 or 9 years.

Mike has been along to a couple of these nights and really enjoyed them - being there with a bunch of people he has met at the gym, knowing one or two of the guys fighting, seeing their pre-fight intensity and focus, cheering loudly for them along with the crowd of 200 or so, soaking up the atmosphere and observing the bets being taken.  

One of these was on Samui, and just happened to be on a night when we were there before Matthew's birthday.  Samui is a 'bigger deal' as far as fights are concerned - more money, prestige etc, and then Bangkok is the big centre.  Mike was there at the Samui stadium with Kob, the fighter and one other and enjoyed the close association with the team and being right in the corner by the ring with the water bucket, liniment, and sweat.

One of the aspects of these nights that he has really appreciated, and didn't anticipate, is the ceremonial commencement of each fight.  There is wai-ing, prayers, blessing of each corner of the ring and a ritual dance that each of the fighters perform.  It displays respect for the history of the sport and the danger involved.
Go Matthew !

Matthew has also been along to Kobra and had trained about half a dozen times since we have been here.  He is really enjoying it too.  I can tell because he comes home constantly practicing his kicks and punches on anything that looks like a good target.    Annabelle and Matthew are both very interested in Mike's tales of the fight nights.  We have made the decision not to take them to a fight, as it is so very violent and the crowd encouraging this behavior is not something we want to really expose them to (and they start at 9.30pm and finish after midnight).  They have seen a little on TV however.  It is a fine line, given Muay Thai is so much part of the culture, also with Mike's involvement, and that some of the kids at school go to them.  However, I suspect Matthew's curiosity has been piqued enough that he will revisit it at some point later in his life.  He is looking forward to practicing some of his moves on his cousins when we get home!

After 2 months here and his committment to Muay Thai, Mike has definitely acquired some new skills, some weightloss and increased fitness.  He has also learned that there is a gym in Mt Eden, Auckland which holds Muay Thai sessions - so maybe he will continue with it!


We are about to re-watch the film 'Beautiful Boxer' written by Desmond Sim (the brother of our lovely friend Philamae) which will be great cultural context, especially when we get the subtitles working.

Lastly, a few more pictures (with thanks to Mike for allowing me to publish!):

Knee...

Fists...

Legs...

Like that, Kob ?

Shadow boxing !